Greece: 3 days on Hydra (Saronic Islands)

While we slept snug in our cabins, the World Odyssey slipped quietly into its berth at the international dock in Piraeus, Greece (the capital, Athens, is 30 minutes northeast of the port). The sun had yet to rise, but the vibration of the docking props was our signal to wake up and get ready for a Greek island adventure!

This was the "No Reservations" leg of our journey, intentionally unplanned.  We had 5 free days, and did not intend to spend them in sketchy, prostitute-filled Piraeus. Once the purser announced hat the gangway was open, we were off with overnight bags packed to see what was happening at the ferry terminal. The rough plan was to pick our destination based on which ferry was leaving next, as long as the trip was 6 hours or less. We needed to make sure we could get back to the ship relatively easily, just in case; strikes are not uncommon, and that could easily turn our Greek island idyll into a dystopian paradise of no escape.

The high-speed ferry to Hydra

Outside the steps of the Piraeus ferry ticket office we encountered a group of Syrian refugees, mostly women and children. From the looks of things -- blankets, bags, discarded food packaging & empty water bottles, etc. -- it seemed like they had been there for some time. They didn't ask but we have them some small change, which was gladly accepted. There are thousands of refugees in the Athens area, most fleeing the violence and chaos in Syria, all trying to get out of Greece as quickly as possible on the way to Germany or northern Europe. 

FlyingMule 1 at dock

It was now 9 am. Inside the ferry office, a young woman dressed in an all-black, skin-tight nightclub ensemble informed us that we could just make the next ferry to Poros, Hydra, and Spetses. All three are islands in the Saronic group, close enough to Athens to make them day trip destinations but far enough that they enjoyed crystal clear water, clean air, and fewer tourists than some closer islands. We chose the island in the middle - Hydra - bought our tickets and rushed out to board our bright green "Flyingcat" hydrofoil. FlyingCat 4 is like a wide-bodied jet, indoor seating only. When these high-speed boats get going, they don't want anyone flying off overboard.

No shortage of cats on Hydra.

In 2 hours or so, FlyingCat 4 throttled back and coasted into the gorgeous, tight little harbor of Hydra town. Whitewashed, tile-roofed homes spilled down both sides of the harbor, ending in a happy, bright row of cafes, restaurants, and shops encircling the marina. We were met with a line of donkeys and mules awaiting passengers and cargo; motorized vehicles (except for garbage and fire trucks) are prohibited on Hydra, so privately-rented donkeys and mules provide most of the transportation services for the island. Hydra is steep, so if you have a lot of heavy luggage, or you just want to try a mule ride, this is your chance.

Bridge on coastal path south of Hydra town

Hydra proved to be a great choice for a 3-day island escape. It's small, compact, has a great walking trail along it's stunning coastline, several swimming spots, and a huge variety of decent tavernas. My favorite was To Pefkaki, a tiny 6-seater taverna along the trail south from Hydra town. The menu is written on the blackboard, mostly vegetarian, very fresh salads, homemade dolmades, giant beans, spanakopita, and other light bites. And, of course ouzo!! Before or after lunch, you can head down the narrow path to the swimming platform built into the rocky shore and have a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear Aegean Sea.

Sunset, Hydra harbor, Greece

Out of an abundance of caution, we returned to Piraeus a day before the World Odyssey was due to depart for Spain. Our last day was reserved for Athens. I'd been to Athens and toured the Acropolis many years ago, and assumed it hadn't changed (the Parthenon was mostly covered in scaffolding for a restoration project anyway), so I decided to take the bus into Syngtagma Square and start walking. 

Looking towards Mt. Lycabettus, Athens

Crossing through the touristy but fun and car-free Plaka, I headed towards the base of the Acropolis. There were some windy streets heading up into the side of the hill, which I followed, taking some photos of the view along the way. Around a corner there appeared a small enclave of artsy, funky homes built one atop the other on the steep slope in the Acropolis' shadow. When I got back to the ship and Googled it, I learned that I had found Anafiotika, a neighborhood in the Plaka known for the eccentric and creative people who call it home. 


The graffiti here is striking. Athens is one of the world's great cities and the cradle of western civilization, so it was interesting to observe the lasting passion for personal expression reflected here. Some works were stunning (to me), especially the example shown below, looking out above the Plaka and toward Mt. Lycabettus.

It was getting late, but I had just enough time for lunch before returning to the ship for final boarding. A very kind lady I met recommended a little cafe in the Plaka - Ο γλυκύς ("Glykys" in English; address Geronta 2, Athina 105 58, Greece). A few hundred feet away from a bustling shopping street, this tavern is nestled into a small recess behind the storefronts. It had a large covered outdoor patio surrounded and shaded by tropical palms and large-leafed ferns. I settled in and ordered an ouzo (a traditional Greek liquor similar to pastis, served straight with ice on the side), dolmades (marinated grape leaves stuffed with seasoned rice), and sausage with roast peppers. Bliss. The tavern cats slept, I ate. 

I did not miss the boat.

complimentary lap cat with lunch at Ο γλυκύς.