Best Bus Station Award goes to - Budva, Montenegro

Apologies for the late posts.. keeping up with bad WiFi during the trip was harder than I thought.

Bay of Kotor, Montenegro

October 1-3, 2015: Dubrovnik was enchanting, but after a few days we were ready to explore further afield. Our choices came down to: north to the Croatian coastal city of Split, east to Bosnia-Herzegovina, or south to Montenegro or Albania. Many of our shipmates were making similar plans, with a place called Kotor in Montenegro emerging as the most popular destination. We chose to head south to Budva, Montenegro, a seaside resort area popular with the Russian jet-set and just another half hour from Kotor.

The Kotor bus station

There is no rail line serving Dubrovnik. To get to Montenegro using public transportation means you take the bus. Buses here are clean, fairly reliable, and fairly inexpensive. Our bus to Budva had a transfer in Kotor, so we would at least get to see it along the way, and if it looked really awesome, we could cut our time in Budva short to spend a day in Kotor. Although on a map the two cities look very close, the ride from Dubrovnik to Kotor took about 3 hours, due to the lack of any bridges spanning Kotor Bay, a long, deep, and very scenic fjord (technically, it IS a fjord, just like the ones in Norway) forming a three-pronged trident shape with Kotor on the southeastern prong of the trident. The views along Kotor Bay are spectacular, with the brooding stony mountains rising nearly perpendicular from the road cutting along the bay's edge. But Kotor didn't look very enticing from the bus stop, so we were happy to press on and transferred to the bus for Budva. Happy too that there was a working toilet at the spartan-looking Kotor bus stop, even though it cost about 50 cents to use and was pretty filthy... the local buses don't have bathrooms aboard so you need to make sure to use the facilities when and where you can on a long trip.

Budva - Best. Bus Station. Ever.

Arriving at the bus station in Budva was a surprise; the place is obviously someone's labor of love. The Budva Bus Station, or "Best Bus Station Ever" is a multi-faceted, quirky establishment combining a rest stop, ticket office, gourmet deli, gelato shop, magazine stand, bar, and restaurant surrounded by gushing fountains, swans, lush gardens, and a menagerie of little animals -- tortoises, bunnies, goats, pigs, turkeys, songbirds, and deer cavorting together inside their chain-link paradise. To top it off, there is a big treehouse with a few tables inside where you can sit suspended above the zoo, and waitresses come up to take your order. After enjoying a couple of refreshing (and cheap) Montenegran beers in the bus station treehouse, we knew we were really going to like Budva.

Some photos of the Budva Bus Station:

The awesome treehouse.

Awesome treehouse waitress.

Budva bus station cafe

Swans & fountains

Greece: 3 days on Hydra (Saronic Islands)

While we slept snug in our cabins, the World Odyssey slipped quietly into its berth at the international dock in Piraeus, Greece (the capital, Athens, is 30 minutes northeast of the port). The sun had yet to rise, but the vibration of the docking props was our signal to wake up and get ready for a Greek island adventure!

This was the "No Reservations" leg of our journey, intentionally unplanned.  We had 5 free days, and did not intend to spend them in sketchy, prostitute-filled Piraeus. Once the purser announced hat the gangway was open, we were off with overnight bags packed to see what was happening at the ferry terminal. The rough plan was to pick our destination based on which ferry was leaving next, as long as the trip was 6 hours or less. We needed to make sure we could get back to the ship relatively easily, just in case; strikes are not uncommon, and that could easily turn our Greek island idyll into a dystopian paradise of no escape.

The high-speed ferry to Hydra

Outside the steps of the Piraeus ferry ticket office we encountered a group of Syrian refugees, mostly women and children. From the looks of things -- blankets, bags, discarded food packaging & empty water bottles, etc. -- it seemed like they had been there for some time. They didn't ask but we have them some small change, which was gladly accepted. There are thousands of refugees in the Athens area, most fleeing the violence and chaos in Syria, all trying to get out of Greece as quickly as possible on the way to Germany or northern Europe. 

FlyingMule 1 at dock

It was now 9 am. Inside the ferry office, a young woman dressed in an all-black, skin-tight nightclub ensemble informed us that we could just make the next ferry to Poros, Hydra, and Spetses. All three are islands in the Saronic group, close enough to Athens to make them day trip destinations but far enough that they enjoyed crystal clear water, clean air, and fewer tourists than some closer islands. We chose the island in the middle - Hydra - bought our tickets and rushed out to board our bright green "Flyingcat" hydrofoil. FlyingCat 4 is like a wide-bodied jet, indoor seating only. When these high-speed boats get going, they don't want anyone flying off overboard.

No shortage of cats on Hydra.

In 2 hours or so, FlyingCat 4 throttled back and coasted into the gorgeous, tight little harbor of Hydra town. Whitewashed, tile-roofed homes spilled down both sides of the harbor, ending in a happy, bright row of cafes, restaurants, and shops encircling the marina. We were met with a line of donkeys and mules awaiting passengers and cargo; motorized vehicles (except for garbage and fire trucks) are prohibited on Hydra, so privately-rented donkeys and mules provide most of the transportation services for the island. Hydra is steep, so if you have a lot of heavy luggage, or you just want to try a mule ride, this is your chance.

Bridge on coastal path south of Hydra town

Hydra proved to be a great choice for a 3-day island escape. It's small, compact, has a great walking trail along it's stunning coastline, several swimming spots, and a huge variety of decent tavernas. My favorite was To Pefkaki, a tiny 6-seater taverna along the trail south from Hydra town. The menu is written on the blackboard, mostly vegetarian, very fresh salads, homemade dolmades, giant beans, spanakopita, and other light bites. And, of course ouzo!! Before or after lunch, you can head down the narrow path to the swimming platform built into the rocky shore and have a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear Aegean Sea.

Sunset, Hydra harbor, Greece

Out of an abundance of caution, we returned to Piraeus a day before the World Odyssey was due to depart for Spain. Our last day was reserved for Athens. I'd been to Athens and toured the Acropolis many years ago, and assumed it hadn't changed (the Parthenon was mostly covered in scaffolding for a restoration project anyway), so I decided to take the bus into Syngtagma Square and start walking. 

Looking towards Mt. Lycabettus, Athens

Crossing through the touristy but fun and car-free Plaka, I headed towards the base of the Acropolis. There were some windy streets heading up into the side of the hill, which I followed, taking some photos of the view along the way. Around a corner there appeared a small enclave of artsy, funky homes built one atop the other on the steep slope in the Acropolis' shadow. When I got back to the ship and Googled it, I learned that I had found Anafiotika, a neighborhood in the Plaka known for the eccentric and creative people who call it home. 


The graffiti here is striking. Athens is one of the world's great cities and the cradle of western civilization, so it was interesting to observe the lasting passion for personal expression reflected here. Some works were stunning (to me), especially the example shown below, looking out above the Plaka and toward Mt. Lycabettus.

It was getting late, but I had just enough time for lunch before returning to the ship for final boarding. A very kind lady I met recommended a little cafe in the Plaka - Ο γλυκύς ("Glykys" in English; address Geronta 2, Athina 105 58, Greece). A few hundred feet away from a bustling shopping street, this tavern is nestled into a small recess behind the storefronts. It had a large covered outdoor patio surrounded and shaded by tropical palms and large-leafed ferns. I settled in and ordered an ouzo (a traditional Greek liquor similar to pastis, served straight with ice on the side), dolmades (marinated grape leaves stuffed with seasoned rice), and sausage with roast peppers. Bliss. The tavern cats slept, I ate. 

I did not miss the boat.

complimentary lap cat with lunch at Ο γλυκύς.

Croatia: To King's Landing (Dubrovnik)

King's Landing (Dubrovnik, Croatia)

It was a windless and calm voyage south, out of the Bay of Naples en route to our next port of call: Dubrovnik, Croatia. As a die-hard Game of Thrones (GOT) fan, I was thrilled to visit the HBO series' setting of King's Landing, the capital of Westeros. GOT enthusiast or not, Dubrovnik is a treasure, with it's surreal marriage of architecture, history, and uncanny sense of place.

I stumbled upon the fabled pier of King's Landing by accident while looking for an alternate view of the city walls... while looking for the right spot to take a shot, I realized I was standing exactly where Sansa Stark, Littlefinger, Rose and Shae gathered in Season 3, Episode 1. I kept telling myself this should NOT matter so much to me, it's just a TV show... but honestly, it's already one of my best memories. A little voice in my head kept chiding.. "you have a bachelor's in History... really, this is more exciting than the Roman Forum?" Yes. Yes it is. I have no regrets.

Hiking trail on Lokrum

Just 15 minutes by ferry from Dubrovnik, the island of Lokrum is a gem. The little island looks like a bumpy green lump in the sea, green because it is a protected natural habitat. Lokrum is crisscrossed by trails, and to our surprise hosts the #2-rated restaurant in all of Dubrovnik. Lokrum is also the filming locale for GOT's Qarth scenes, except for the House of the Undying (that's Minčeta Tower, back in Dubrovnik). It's exceedingly pretty, and we had a lovely half-day here, just swimming off the rocks by the tiny ferry landing and lunching at Lacroma Snack Bar, an offshoot of the island's deservedly high-rated restaurant.

View south to Lokrum, Dubrovnik

Regardless of your passion for all things Westeros, Croatia charmed me like no place has ever done. I can't pin it down to any one thing. Croatia is a heady combination of geography, climate, and people that refuse to be pigeonholed into a neat classification. Euro-centric culture? Yes, but... (see: Ottoman Empire).  EU member? Yes, but... (see: Kuna currency).  Staunchly Roman Catholic? Yes, but... (see naturists). It helps to remember that Croatia is a very new country, having won it's independence from the quagmire of the former communist state Yugoslavia in 1995, just 20 years ago. 

Walking the City Wall, Dubrovnik

What to do with just a day in Dubrovnik? Grab an early breakfast and beat the crowds to walk the Dubrovnik City Walls right when they open at 9:00 am. Arriving before 9:30 guarantees you a mostly crowd-free and leisurely experience. The views are incredible, make sure your camera is charged and ready! If you start at the main entrance near the city gate, about halfway around the city you will be at the seafront, and there are a couple of cafes (the Buza Bar is one) nestled against the outside wall and the Adriatic. It's a nice place to stop for a bracing cappuccino or espresso.

Cold tsatziki soup

Taj Mahal, Dubrovnic

After all that wall-walking, we were famished. What's good in Dubrovnik? How about Bosnian food? A charismatic little cafe named Taj Mahal on the western edge of the walled city was just the ticket for lunch - it specializes in traditional Bosnian home cuisine and is the only Bosnian restaurant in Dubrovnik. I started with a creamy, spicy buttermilk-based cold soup followed by grilled lamb kebab and a baby jacket potato. The cups, bowls and especially the Turkish coffee service (wish I got a photo!) were uniquely handcrafted in traditional designs from pewter, copper, and tin. The outrageously reasonable bill arrives in an ornately carved little wooden box... it's a nice touch.

Dubrovnik, I miss you already...

Next stop: Greece and the Saronic Islands.

Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast

Okay, so I am running a bit behind in updating. My last post was Testaccio, Rome and right now we are somewhere off the coast of Greece en route to Piraeus. I blame it on the ship bandwidth - when at sea, I am competing with roughly 700 undergraduate students who were born with an iPhone in their hands, so uploading to the Internet requires bucket loads of patience. 

800 people live on this active volcano.

On day 2 of our cruise south from Naples, our ship made a close pass on Stromboil, an active (and inhabited!) volcano off the coast of Sicily. It was puffing clouds of steam and ash every few minutes... close your eyes and imagine a volcano island, and this is it. Elon Musk, we've found your secret lair...

Stromboli Volcano from World Odyssey deck, Adriatic Sea

Marina Piccola, Sorrento, Italy

Breakfast, Marina Piccola 73, Sorrento

On Sept. 20, we caught a fast train from Rome to Napoli (Naples). From there, it was an hour on the Circumvesuvio (literally, "around Vesuvius") train past Herculaneum and Pompeii to Sorrento, on the north side of the Amafli peninsula. Sorrento makes a good base for excursions to the famous excavations at Pompeii and the ridiculously picturesque towns hugging the Amalfi Coast. Sorrento itself is one big limoncello shop, touristy to the extreme. Thankfully, our hotel was an oasis from the crass commercialism... Marina Piccola 73, hidden away at the base of the cliff below Sorrnto proper and fronting the small port where ferries whisk throngs of visitors to their dream destinations: Amalfi, Capri, Positano, Salerno, Ischia.

Our initial plan for an Amalfi day trip involved renting a two-person scooter and doing the famous cliff hugging drive from Sorrento ourselves. What could possibly go wrong? We'd driven scooters in Italian rush hour, so we felt we could handle a twisty-turny, low-speed road. Thank God the rental agency required a driver's license, which my husband had left on the ship. This turned out to be a godsend. 

Yours truly, with El Jeffe del Norte

Less than a minute into the "fun" part of the Sorrento-Amalfi bus ride (the part that hugs the sheer cliff on the south side of the penninsula), we knew we had narrowly averted disaster by being denied a scooter rental. We had a comedian at the wheel who loved scaring everyone on the bus by pretending to lose control at hairpin turns 1,000 feet above the ocean, yelling "OH MY GOOOOODDD!" in his thick Italian accent. Anyway, we made it and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. 

Amalfi is stunning, and steep... Lots of narrow, winding alleyways, and although there were lots of tourist shops, they did a better job of blending in. We had our first ocean swim of the trip here on Amalfi's public beach. located to the far east of the main drag. No sand here, all rocks, but the water is clear, inviting, and warm, perfect for a dip after lunch.

Rome: Why Testaccio, like Hansel, is so hot right now

Walking to Testaccio along the Tiber, view to Trastevere

Hotel Villa San Pio, Aventine Hill

Zoolander references aside, down-and-dirty Testaccio, just south of Aventine Hill and across the Tiber River from photogenic Trastevere, is officially Rome's hottest neighborhood. Testaccio gets its name from the ancient mound of broken amphorae that form Monte Testaccio in the middle. You won't find any souvenir or t-shirt shops here. A short stroll south of Via Marmoratta will reward you with incredible restaurants, friendly people, and a vibrant local food and art scene.


Usually, I look for accommodations on the outer fringes of a city. I prefer the relative quiet and slower pace, and as long as there is good public transport to the center of things, not much is sacrificed. Rome has some lovely areas just on the outer edges of the tourist- and Fiat-clogged city center. Testaccio is such a place.

Testaccio is lively and lived-in, with a smattering of excellent places to eat and drink. I stayed in a beautiful small hotel near here called Villa San Pio on Aventine Hill, just across Via Marmoratta from Testaccio. Embarassing admission: I chose the Aventine due to it's association with characters Titus and Pullo in the HBO Series "Rome." It turns out the Aventine's working-class plebeians have moved just a bit south, to Testaccio.

One of many prepared food vendors

Fresh local produce stand in the Testaccio New Market

The New Testaccio Market anchors the neighborhood, a large open-air bazar where area vendors, farmers, and fishers come to sell their goods directly to the public. It's a great place to explore for an hour or so, and it's perfect for picking up some picnic supplies for a do-it-yourself gourmet luncheon. One of the most popular stalls is Mordi e Vai, which makes carefully-prepared sandwiches and other sides to go. I had a tender and flavorful beef and red pepper sandwich and a slow-braised artichoke in olive oil and lemon.... Soooo mouth-watering I can taste it now.

In Testaccio:

Volpetti -gourmet food shop, pricey but the best of Italy is here

Da Buccatino - excellent traditional Roman trattoria. Some dishes require a bib- your waiter will assist with bib donning and removal.

Flávio al Velavevodetto - another great trattoria, set into the side of the ancient trash heap of broken amphorae that make up Monte Testaccio, the neighborhood's namesake.