Ugljan, the "Olive Island"

Halfway around St. Michael's Fort, Ugljan, Dalmatia

Day trip to St. Mihovil's (St. Michael's) Fort, Ugljan

The island of Ugljan (pronounced "oog-li-yan") is an easy 20-minute ferry ride across the Zadar channel. Whenever the bustle of town life got to be too much, I'd hop on the next ferry to spend a few hours hiking and exploring this lovely Dalmatian island. The Jadrolinja ferry from Zadar arrives in the port of Preko, where there are a grocery store and a couple of cafes / taverns, as well as bus service to other towns on the island.

Hiking trail on Ugljan, springtime blooms

On one day trip I determined to make it all the way from Preko to St. Mihovil's fort, formerly a Roman depot and later a Venetian fortress, on the top of the island's highest peak. The hike leads from the port through a small residential area, climbing steadily upwards through 2,000-year-old olive groves tended by local families. The local residents also harvest grapes and make wine, for family consumption. It's absolutely lovely, especially in spring when all the wildflowers are in bloom. My lunch spot above was reached after about 2 hours of steady walking. The rest of the way around the mountain was a bit of a scramble over limestone boulders on the cliff face, aided only by a few cables attached to the rock face. It was exhilarating and not too difficult, well worth the views.

Visit the Preko Tourism Ugljan Island website for information and advice on what to see, how to get there, and the natural and cultural history of the island.

Rain shelter in an olive grove

Lunch with an island family

One of my husband's students, Ivan, lives on the island with his wife Suzy and their daughter, Marie. They invited us over to their home for lunch to sample some of the fish from Ivan's aquaculture operation on the remote western side of the island.

Lunch with Ivan's family. The fish are from
Ivan's aquaculture farm on the western side of Ugljan.

Like her mother, Suzy was born on the island. She and Ivan are starting an aquaculture business so they can stay on the island and make a life for themselves and their daughter. Fresh fish are in high demand as wild supplies are being depleted throughout the Mediterranean. The fish were harvested that morning and by noon we were feasting on the freshest, most delicious grilled seafood I've had in ages. The entire day was spent hiking, eating, and drinking endless rounds of homemade wine and local cherry brandy (Maraschino). Such a treat!