A day in Sarajevo

Springtime in old town Sarajevo

Arrived at the Sarajevo airport in good shape after a 20+ hour trip to witness a minor miracle - my checked bag appeared in the carousel. Before leaving San Diego I'd decided to chuck my carry-on only rule and packed a sacrificial bag full of warm but expendable clothing that I wouldn't fret over if never seen again (I had two extremely tight connections in SFO and Istanbul and doubted I would make it through both, let alone a checked bag.) Kudos, Turkish Airlines! It's cold here in March and I am grateful for the extra layers.

There are numerous outdoor cafes, all with wifi

Joy of joys, the owner of my hotel was waiting for me right at the exit. We sped down the highway and arrived at my home for the next two nights: Hotel VIP. When checking in I mentioned I'd like to take a walk to shake off the flight, and maybe have a glass of wine. The owner's daughter took me by the arm and walked with me across the street to show me Bašcaršija, or old town Sarajevo, explaining that it was perfectly safe for a lone woman to be out and about late at night. At 10:00 pm the streets were full of people, shops and cafes were open, and the vibe was happy and energetic. She pointed out some of the sights and then I was off on my own. I felt extremely safe and enjoyed exploring the winding, narrow pedestrian alleyways. When I returned to the hotel, the owner's daughter greeted me and said she'd left a little gift in my room. It was a small bottle of local red wine. So very sweet.

Ottoman period fireplace, Svrzo House

View from Svrzo House to old town

I love to visit museum homes - private residues that have been turned into museums showcasing how life was lived by ordinary people in the past. One such home is the Svrzo House, located just a few minutes walk from old town. Svrzo House offers an intimate view into the daily life of a wealthy Muslim family in the late 18th century, when the Ottoman Empire ruled the Balkans. On the morning I visited, I was the sole guest. There is no tour or pamphlet to guide you, but there are interpretive signs explaining the functions of each room in English as well as Bosnian. I spent a very enjoyable hour exploring the home, imagining the family at home. My favorite memories are of the "Girls' Room" upstairs, protected by a heavy and onately carved wood door sheathed in iron, and the bathroom, complete with a hot water shower. The ornate fireplaces are ingeniously designed, studded with colorful round ceramic tiles (also ornately detailed) which would absorb the heat from the fire within and radiate it slowly to warm the room.