Sarajevo, city of hope

 Assassination site of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of
Austria, whose death in 1914 triggered WWI

Sarajevo is an enigma. The city today is warm, welcoming, safe, and pleasantly multicultural, yet reminders of its turbulent history are hard to miss.

The city is nestled in a mountain valley, surrounded on all sides by rugged terrain. In winter there is usually snow (Sarajevo hosted the 1976 Winter Olympics) but this year, in March, what snow had fallen was long gone, and the hills were brilliantly green. Except, that is, for large white patches on all sides... no matter which direction you look, you see the green interrupted by white. It isn't snow. It's gravestones. Thousands of gravestones. The modern capital of Bosnia-Herzegovina is surrounded by the victims of the Yugoslav civil war, a constant reminder of the atrocities committed here and throughout Bosnia as the former communist nation was torn apart by separatists. In some parts of town, most buildings more than 3 stories tall are pock-marked with holes from mortar shells and artillery fire. It's quite sobering, yet hope is also everywhere evident... in the artwork, sculptures, monuments, and memorials found throughout the city encouraging remembrance, forgiveness, and vigilance against hate.

Hotel VIP, Sarajevo....

My return flight is out of Sarajevo; I look forward to coming back to learn more about this fascinating city. I hope to join one of the organized walking tours about the lives of citizens during the civil war, when the locals were essentially trapped in the city by Yugoslav-Serbian forces in the surrounding hills. I remember back in the early 90's, seeing footage of people pinned down by sniper fire ("Sniper Alley" was infamous for fatalities, as it's orientation afforded the Serbian snipers a clear shot of anyone on the street), running for their lives. As a traveler, I like to think that people are essentially good-- and my faith is not yet shaken, but one gift from Sarajevo is knowing that people can overcome even the worst of human nature.

A day in Sarajevo

Springtime in old town Sarajevo

Arrived at the Sarajevo airport in good shape after a 20+ hour trip to witness a minor miracle - my checked bag appeared in the carousel. Before leaving San Diego I'd decided to chuck my carry-on only rule and packed a sacrificial bag full of warm but expendable clothing that I wouldn't fret over if never seen again (I had two extremely tight connections in SFO and Istanbul and doubted I would make it through both, let alone a checked bag.) Kudos, Turkish Airlines! It's cold here in March and I am grateful for the extra layers.

There are numerous outdoor cafes, all with wifi

Joy of joys, the owner of my hotel was waiting for me right at the exit. We sped down the highway and arrived at my home for the next two nights: Hotel VIP. When checking in I mentioned I'd like to take a walk to shake off the flight, and maybe have a glass of wine. The owner's daughter took me by the arm and walked with me across the street to show me Bašcaršija, or old town Sarajevo, explaining that it was perfectly safe for a lone woman to be out and about late at night. At 10:00 pm the streets were full of people, shops and cafes were open, and the vibe was happy and energetic. She pointed out some of the sights and then I was off on my own. I felt extremely safe and enjoyed exploring the winding, narrow pedestrian alleyways. When I returned to the hotel, the owner's daughter greeted me and said she'd left a little gift in my room. It was a small bottle of local red wine. So very sweet.

Ottoman period fireplace, Svrzo House

View from Svrzo House to old town

I love to visit museum homes - private residues that have been turned into museums showcasing how life was lived by ordinary people in the past. One such home is the Svrzo House, located just a few minutes walk from old town. Svrzo House offers an intimate view into the daily life of a wealthy Muslim family in the late 18th century, when the Ottoman Empire ruled the Balkans. On the morning I visited, I was the sole guest. There is no tour or pamphlet to guide you, but there are interpretive signs explaining the functions of each room in English as well as Bosnian. I spent a very enjoyable hour exploring the home, imagining the family at home. My favorite memories are of the "Girls' Room" upstairs, protected by a heavy and onately carved wood door sheathed in iron, and the bathroom, complete with a hot water shower. The ornate fireplaces are ingeniously designed, studded with colorful round ceramic tiles (also ornately detailed) which would absorb the heat from the fire within and radiate it slowly to warm the room.